Anohito
Feb 26, 2007, 05:06
1 Feb 1983 (Tue): I set out immediately on the train and headed for Yokosuka, getting there in time for lunch. I didn’t take an inordinate amount of time looking for a place to have lunch, and rather quickly settled on a place called (I learned later) Fire Katsu Tei(1). It seemed to offer a good lunch at a reasonable price. It was indeed quite a good lunch. I'll remember it. After lunch I stopped in San Ei [a restaurant of uncertain location remembered from 1975-77] for coffee, and discovered that although they sell straight whole bean coffee, they don't serve straight coffee. Then, to the Base. The Post Office had been moved, so my first stop was the Exchange. I bought hash marks [rank insignia for the sleeves] and took them and my jumpers to the tailor shop. I also looked around the Exchange. The selection of clothes seems good, but there isn’t much in the way of shoes. Perhaps I'll be able to find shoes to fit me on the economy(2). I considered looking through the Commissary, but decided that it could wait until later. Next, to the Post Office for post cards. Then to CFAY [Commander, Fleet Activities Yokosuka] Admin to drop off and pick up. On the way back to Yokosuka Chuo Station I looked in Saikaya (department store) for a food floor. They have a fine one, with Key coffee. I made it back to the station in time for a kaiso tokkyu [the fastest expresses, making the fewest stops]. On the way back to Hardy Barracks from Roppongi I stopped at the grocery store and bought some ice cream and some pudding. The ice cream wasn’t what I had expected–bean ice cream [adzuki ice cream, which I did come to like quite a lot]. However, I did find a good inexpensive brand of pudding–Glico. I had been considering a concert for the evening, but worked on the chess cards long enough that I didn’t want to try for the concert, especially considering that TC had indicated that only the two cheapest categories of tickets were available. So, off to the meeting. Afterward, supper was at Moti, an excellent chicken curry. I thought I might be able to use the mango chutney if I ordered bread and I was. Finally, back to H.B. for the evening.
(1) The "fire" is two syllables, and is the Japanese rendering of "fillet". The "katsu" is a shortened form of the Japanese rendering of "cutlet" ("katsuretsu" in full).
(2) "On the economy" (i.e., local economy) is Navy jargon for transactions made off-base that do not involve the U.S. military or U.S. Government in any way. The hope that I'd be able to find shoes to fit me in Japanese stores was probably unrealistic. I should have been aware from my previous tour of duty that the range of Japanese apparel sizes was consistently smaller than American sizes. I believe the largest shoe size available in Japanese stores was at least a couple of sizes smaller than what I wore.
2 Feb 1983 (Wed): High time to make entries, no doubt(1). Because of the weather I didn't want to wander around Omote Sando looking for someplace to buy a bento. Therefore, I went to Ginza, where I knew I could get a bento without going outside. First, I had my morning coffee at Toa. Matsuzakaya was closed, so I looked in Ginza Core for a sushi shop. As I thought, there is one, Tsukiji Tamazushi, and I bought a bento there. There wasn't time to look around for a wallet, so to Omote Sando for the meeting. I found the building easily enough, but finding the meeting place within it turned out to be a problem . Finally, three of us "lost souls" came together and settled on a room. Two of the regulars eventually came in. The weather still wasn't good after the meeting, so I took the subway. While riding, I changed my mind and came to Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi instead of stopping in Ginza. Here, I can buy a wallet, have dessert (which I'm doing now, a coffee jelly in the first floor tea room–not bad, but I've had better), and buy a couple of those art books I saw on my previous visit. At first, I went to the wrong floor to find wallets. Men's clothing is on the second floor, but accessories are on the first floor. Once I found the wallets, I found what I wanted right away. In the gallery where I went to buy the art books there was a different exhibit, so I stopped in for a look. There were some excellent paintings. There was also an interesting pottery exhibit on the second floor. In fact, I saw many interesting things while in the store (green onyx tables and accessories, rose jade, azurite, and more). In order to refresh myself and shape my plans for the evening, I stopped at the juice bar and had some cut pineapple. The pineapple was delicious, but I hadn't yet decided what to do this evening. Anyway, I gravitated to the subway station. While there, I decided to see of the Tokyo Bunka Kaikan ticket office was open. I figured that if I got tickets for the piano recital tonight, I would find some way to kill time in Ueno. The ticket office is open, and I bought tickets for a concert tomorrow as well. Bringing my diary up to date (in the TBK) has killed some time. I think I can eat supper before the concert if I don't try to eat a huge supper. I'll look around in Keisei depato (if it is open!)(2). In actuality, I checked in TC before going over there to make sure Keisei was open. Since there was time, I looked around the basement first. They have a coffee bar with straight coffee. Then up the escalator to the restaurant floor. I was in the mood for Chinese food, and so investigated the offerings of the Chinese restaurant. I saw something in the case which struck my fancy, and it was a tasty dish. Rather than struggle with two bags during the concert, I put my bags in a coin locker at Ueno Station. I'm now awaiting the beginning of the concert. The concert was very good. From there I went directly to HB to write a letter and have a few goodies.
(1) A remark prompted by my tendency, which I was never able to correct, to wait until well after events to make diary entries.
(2) The depato was not in the station building, if my memory is correct. The only map that shows it, an older map, places it between the above-ground rail lines and the Shuto Expressway #1, across from the Hirokoji Entrance of the station building. However, my newer Tokyo City Atlas shows a Marui store in that location. Both things are possible. I just don’t remember where the Keisei depato was located.
[B]3 Feb 1983 (Thu): I'm getting my morning coffee whether I had intended to or not. Having come directly to Shibuya and more-or-less found the Taiwanese restaurant I wanted, I sem to have wandered into a nearby coffee shop. The door was practically next to the sign that indicates (or seems to) the restaurant. The restaurant is downstairs. It was disconcerting to discover that the restaurant had no menus, or used none for lunch, as well as having no display case(1). Of course, they didn't speak English. However, I quickly deduced that there were two lunch sets being offered and chose the chicken with bamboo shoot set. The price, as I read the bill, seemed a bit high, but I knew that is frequently the case in Chinese restaurants here. The food was excellent, though, and they were offering seconds on soup as well as rice, so I availed myself of the opportunity. When I went to pay the bill, I discovered that what I had read as \1500 was actually one meal at \500. Not bad at all! From there I set out for the Tobacco & Salt Museum. On the way, I was sidetracked by the Fashion Community 109, which turned out to be a building with shops, an outfit along the lines of Parco, Belle Vie Akasaka, & Ginza Core(2). The exhibition at the T&SM could have used some signs in English, but it was interesting. On the way back to Shibuya Station, [ I looked in the Tokyu depato in the station building](3). It was a fortuitous decision, because I not only discovered that the Sound Burgers run on batteries as well as Japanese House current, but also found a Ten Ichi branch shop with reasonable prices [the best-known location, in Ginza, is expensive]. I'm now in the (serious) coffee shop in B1. They have a wide selection of Key whole bean coffee in B2. I'm now resting my bones in the Riccar Museum of Art. I came here by way of Shinbashi Station. On the way, I noticed a most promising coffee shop. The exhibit was excellent. My original idea for supper was Darie, but when I went by there, it didn't look like they were serving yet. The Pakistani restaurant [Ghandara] also didn't open until 1700 (it could be that Darie doesn't begin serving supper until 1730), and I wasn't certain I wanted food that spicy. I walked down to Movenpick (Ginza). Having seen some things that caught my fancy (I wanted a reasonably ambitious supper), I decided that I could fiddle around the few minutes until the restaurant opened. I did that and had a delicious supper. The soup was a trifle over-priced (good, though), but the broccoli may have been the best I've ever eaten. From supper to Ueno for the concert. The Hindemith was interesting, but the brass tended to swamp the rest of the orchestra, especially the strings. The Mozart Concertone set me to wondering of the hall is too large for small ensembles, although the soloists played beautifully. The Beethoven Symphony #3 was completely successful. A delight to hear. Then back to HB to rest a bit and munch.
(1) The lack of such useful information about the restaurant was a lapse on Tour Companion's part.
(2) Which is to say, it is a vertical mall. It is owned and operated by the Tokyu department store chain. The name of the company, Tokyu, can be read as "ten-nine", or 109.
(3) The comment in brackets is a guess at what should be there. In my haste while making notes, I didn't directly say what happened on the way to the station, although subsequent context certainly indicates looking around in the station department store.
4 Feb 1983 (Fri): My original intention for today had been to see the matinee at the Kabukiza. However, I decided this morning that so much siting today (including the movie this evening, for which I already have a ticket) would be a strain on the gluteus maximus (glutei maximi?). I went back to "Ro Poro" for my morning coffee. I had lunch at the mizutaki-ya in the basement of the Sunroser Bldg. The mizutaki teishoku is large enough that I wonder how I would eat all of the "A Course," which is 3 1/2 times the cost of the teishoku. Perhaps the "A Course" is for two people. However, I don't see anything in the description of the "A Course" that indicates that it's for "ni-nin" ["two persons"]. From there to the Ota Memorial Museum of Art for another excellent ukiyo-e(1) exhibition. Following that, I had dessert, "anzu kuriimu" ["apricot cream"] at Takemura, in the basement. Then I got a good lesson in the advisability of checking with TC before going anyplace. The exhibit I went to the Yamatane Museum to see doesn't begin until tomorrow. After some cogitation, I decided that this would be as good as any opportunity to investigate Akihabara. I'm glad I did. It's something of a rabbit warren. I checked several shops, and I don't think it will be possible to get anything for barracks use between a Sound Burger and a sizeable combo. I found Budokan easily enough. Upon exiting Kudanshita Station it would be difficult to miss. Rather than look for someplace to have a snack beforehand, I decided to have refreshments in Budokan (they always have refreshments at such places). The movie was most interesting(2). I could follow it well enough in spite of the Japanese subtitles. I sure would like to know that the ghosts of Danton, et al., said to Napoleon in the empty chamber of deputies (?), though. At the movie's end, I didn't dawdle applauding for the conductor/composer and orchestra, although it is an excellent "soundtrack," and it was played very well. I thought it was more important to avoid the rush and get to the subway station. A much-delayed supper will be eaten at Ginza Cozy Corner (Roppongi). There was some sort of confusion between me and the waiter, but I got what I ordered, the paella dinner, which was excellent. I was in such an expansive mood, I bought a couple of goodies on my way out. And so, back to HB.
(1) "Ukiyo-e" means "pictures of the floating world," and refers to both paintings and woodblock prints that deal with, at least tangentially, the pleasure quarters and kabuki.
(2) Abel Gance's Napoleon, with three screens (for the end) and music composed especially for the restored version played by one of the Tokyo orchestras, conducted by the composer, Carmine Coppola.
5 Feb 1983 (Sat): I hope I haven't fiddled around too long. Oh well, the worst that could happen is that I would miss the meeting this evening. That's hardly critical, since there may be one in Yokosuka Sunday and there is one in Yokohama Monday. I came to Hosyo for lunch (take teishoku–excellent). As I recalled, there was room to stash my sea bag outside but near, although not in the location of which I had been thinking. As soon as I finish my coffee (with the meal, and in a Chinese restaurant), I'll be on my way (groan) to Yokosuka. No problem getting to Yokosuka. I left my Service Record and orders back in Tokyo (the records I grabbed before I left didn't contain my Service Record), but I had a couple of copies of my 3067 [A sheet with personal information/ data] in my Pay Record. The first room we (the Barracks Petty Officer and I) went to was a trash heap(1). The next room was much better, so I took that one. Then, over to the Exchange to get my jumpers, which I stashed in the room. Once out of the gate, I decided that I didn't have time to get to the meeting if I stopped at HB to pick up and jar of instant coffee I had intended to leave there. That had been one of my main reasons for going, so I decided to take a look around Yokosuka for a little bit. I looked through the upper floors at Saikaya [a depato]. No Sound Burger, but a good restaurant. Next, I looked in Seiyu(2). They have a great little supermarket in the basement. I bought a small jar of one of the brands of instant coffee that looks promising. I suppose I could have continued, but I thought I should catch a train before the worst part of rush hour arrived. I might as well get back to Tokyo, which has a greater variety of restaurants, as long as I'm returning to Tokyo tonight anyway. I changed clothes at HB and set out to have supper. I went past Borsalino, but the menu didn't particularly tempt me. It seemed like an Italian version of a French restaurant, rather than an Italian restaurant. So, it was Stockholm after all. I had the smorgasbord once again. It does indeed make a fine meal. The sell the desserts. I must remember that. Then, back to HB to pack.
(1) It's not stated in the diary, but I've gone to the Enlisted Quarters (barracks) to be assigned a room. The sorry state of the first room, was all too common. Most sailors seemed to be quite content to live like pigs.
(2) Basically, a vertical mall, although they had a supermarket in the basement, as an analogue of a depato food floor.
6 Feb 1983 (Sun): Good grief! Those bags are heavy. I went to Ginza Station and found a coin locker without trouble. Then to the Kabukiza. The performance was at an earlier time than usual (1/2 hour), but I got a good seat. Two of the items were "neo-kabuki" dramas and the English Earphone Guide was a great help. The performances were most interesting and very enjoyable. Because I had eaten some things (leftovers) at HB before I checked out, I didn't order a meal at the kabukiza, but settled for a snack ("soft squid"), coffee, and a grapefruit drink during the performance. Afterward, I looked in Yamano Music [In Ginza 4-5-? between Wako and Mikimoto Pearl.] for the Shostakovitch Preludes & Fugues, to no avail(1). I will ask at the counter at a time when I'm prepared to buy. Now, I'm at Toa having a Mandehling and killing time until it's late enough to have supper. Since I didn't have a proper lunch, I've committed myself to having supper here in Tokyo rather than lugging those bags back to Yokosuka on an empty stomach. I feel obliged to have "international cuisine," which may not be easy, since most of those restaurants are closed on Sunday. The restaurant featuring Szechuan food [which one?] was open. Ironically, what I had was probably not a Szechuan regional dish, unless they cook fresh-water fish that way. At any rate, it was excellent, with a vegetable I don't recall eating before. I didn't have something rich and spicy so that I would have room for a substantial dessert afterward. Dessert was a fruit crepe at Cafe Latin. A "blast from the past."(2) Having no further justifiable reason for dawdling in Tokyo, I set out for Yokosuka. After putting away my bags in the room, I went out to get a few cans of coffee and juice. What used to be my "favorite liquor store" probably won't be any more, since it no longer carries the juice and dairy items I used to buy there(3). However, I now have Saikaya and Seiyu. I found no less than two machines that have Suntory coffee. I also bought what appears to be a canned version of the lemon drink [ramune] in the special glass bottles that you see at festivals. And so, back to the barracks.
(1) As of Feb 2007, I still don't have a recording of them. All recorded complete sets have their drawbacks.
(2) I had discovered Cafe Latin in the 1975-77 period. The entrance was off the pedestrian tunnel area of Ginza Station, between the Hibiya and Marunouchi Lines, on the same side as Wako, Ginza 4-3 or -4.
(3) This was a little liquor store I had found very useful in the 1975-77 period, even after I quit drinking, because it was a convenient place to buy the aforementioned items and ground coffee. It was on Chuo Dori close to Highway 16 in Odakicho 1-Chome, on the Honcho side of the street.
7 Feb 1983 (Mon): Lunch today was at the restaurant in Saikaya. It was Chuka don and was only fair. I recall that at least once before I have had Chuka don and wasn't impressed(1). I did notice a sushi shop with a conveyor belt as I was returning to work [Genroku sushi]. That will be useful information for the future. It was crowded when I went past, so the sushi can’t be too bad. I was late getting away from the office and don't know if I'’ll have time for supper in Yokohama before the meeting. Well, I’m having supper beforehand, anyway. I noticed an attractive yakisoba shop (more or less yakisoba) in Porta(2) and decided to try it. My meal was excellent. I'’ll remember the place. I think the name is Morinoki. That's what is on the floor in romaji. Getting to the meeting was no problem, even if I was a little late. Afterward, Sam took three of us to Byobugaura Station. I took a quick look at a few fruit stores to make sure that none of them was open. I didn't actually expect one of them to be open, but it didn't hurt to take a few minutes to make certain. And so, back to the barracks.
(1) The name is short for Chuka donburi, "Chinese bowl of rice". The dish is heavily Japan-ized Chinese cuisine, consisting of bits of vegetable & fish cake in a thick sauce over rice in a ceramic bowl. Back when I didn't know any better, I thought is was Japanese food. However, the sauce usually tastes too much like American chow mein sauce.
(2) An underground shopping area on the east side of Yokohama Station. The total underground shopping area connected to/with Yokohama Station is quite large.
8 Feb 1983 (Tue): I had lunch in Genroku Sushi. Quick, cheap and quite tasty. I will be back. Because of working late and shopping in the mini-mart, I was a bit late getting out once again. The little stationery shop I has seen previously was still open, so I bought two highlighters (none in mini-mart) and another notebook for expenses. Seiyu was open, so I went in to look around the upper floors. In the stationery section, I found a notebook for daily activities and a gray pen for work. I also looked in audio and saw some good prices on combos, but no Sound Burger. The store was closing (closing time seems to be 1900), so I wasn’t able to buy anything in the supermarket. My old favorite tonkatsu-ya, Itosha, was closed(1). After some looking around I decided on Fire Katsu Tei, where I had a very good rosu katsu teishoku ["rosu katsu" is "roast cutlet", not quite as lean as "fire katsu", "fillet cutlet"]. On Chuo Dori I noticed a coffee shop that has straight coffee and couldn't resist it. The coffee isn't very strong, but is of good quality (they use Key coffee). It (Alberi) is also a patisserie. I'll examine their wares as I leave. I saw a "rare cheese" dessert with four toppings. Well, four choices. I chose a kiwi. As it turned out, Fujiya was still open. I had wanted a can of fruit juice anyway, so I bought peach nectar. Then, back to the barracks, buying a couple cans of Suntory coffee along the way.
(1) Itosha was on the same street as the Centraza (now Central) Hotel, more-or-less perpendicular to Chuo Dori, near Chuo Station.
9 Feb 1983 (Wed): For lunch I went to Itosha. The noren was out, but I don't think they were ready for customers(1). If they really don't open until 1130, it would be impractical to have lunch there if I continue to go to lunch at 1100. I had a very tasty oyster fry. Because I stopped for a haircut after work, I didn't get out until after 1800 once again. This being Wednesday, most of the central shopping district is closed. Seiyu, however, is open, so I did a bit of grocery shopping. It took a conscious effort of will to keep from buying an armful of groceries. I had originally wanted milk, but decided to wait for the weekend to have milk & pastry, whether or not I go to Tokyo. Korean food had been on my mind, but instead I chose a secondary option, Ryu En. The original idea was to have a rice-less meal, lest I become over-riced(2). However, my curiosity about Ryu En eventually prevailed. I'm glad I went. The food is Peking-style, as I had recalled. I had chicken cashew, which was delicious. And rich! Now I know that I don't need to go to Yokohama for Peking-style food [a favorite of mine]. After supper, I decided that I had room for a cup of coffee, So I went to Yashima, which is one of the coffee shops I had noted on 27 Jan. It is indeed a serious coffee shop and the coffee is excellent. Then, back to the barracks.
(1) On occasion, I got the impression that a restaurant let me in and served me because just didn't realize that they weren't open yet. Supposedly, the rule is (obtained from English-language media) that if the noren is out, a restaurant is open, but I don't think that's always true. The noren is a curtain-like cloth sign on a rod outside and above the entrance of most Japanese-style restaurants.
(2) A needless worry, really. I can eat rice far more often than the average Westerner.
10 Feb 1983 (Thu): Lunch was at the first restaurant (not coffee shop) on the right in the Mikasa Ginza(1). The waitress wanted me to order from the display case. I had decided on yakisoba, so I pointed to it. As I sat down, I noticed a gomoku yakisoba on the menu and quickly changed my order. It wasn't quite what I expected, having hard noodles and the ingredients in a thick sauce. I had wanted fried soft noodles, but this was well-made (the first "chow mein" type noodles I've had that were worth eating) and I enjoyed it(2). If the other items on the menu are as well-made, it will be a good place for lunch. I could read most of the items on the menu. On the way back I bought a bean bun from a little shop [stand, really] selling freshly made ones. It was excellent–better than the ones I had in Tokyo(3). They seem to be called kobanyaki (that is what it says on the window in Romaji above kanji [they are indeed, kobanyaki]. Also on the way back, I bought some dried persimmons from a fruit stand. Supper was at the Korean barbeque restaurant I had noticed above snack Blue Sky (the kanji for the restaurant is indecipherable)(4). I had an excellent meal of tongue, namuru, and kimchee. I saw other interesting items on the menu. For dessert I went to Fujiya, but the restaurant was closed. I did get a cup of pudding and a coffee jelly, though. Before returning to base, I took a look at some of the nearby area I hadn't explored. I saw yet another hotel, Hotel Palace [on the unnamed street between Sennichi Dori and NH 16]. This may be a serious hotel, unlike the gaudy thing across from the main gate, which is almost certainly a love hotel [it was]. There was a machine selling Sapporo "The Coffee." It’s tasty hot (Seiyu sells it unheated), but I'm not sure it would taste as good chilled. I considered going down the street heading away from Chuo Station toward NH 16, but could see that some of the shops were closed, so I decided it would keep for later. And so, back to the barracks.
(1) An arcade-like area of shops on the first floor of the Mikasa Building, on the same side of Chuo Dori as Yokosuka Chuo Station.
(2) I had trouble remembering that I usually found gomoku yakisoba or gomoku don to be a mediocre dish at best, largely because of the sauce and the hard noodles in the "yakisoba." I don't recall ever learning the name of this particular restaurant.
(3) This shop was on the same side of Chuo Dori as the Mikasa Ginza, on the end toward National Highway 16.
(4) Oddly enough, I don't think I got the names of any of the Korean restaurants at which I ate in Yokosuka. Of course, that made references to them a problem after forgetting which one was the "old ...", "new ...", etc.
11 Feb 1883 (Fri): I would have left base early today, but I watched most of a video disk in the Beatles in the 1st floor TV room. Almost all of it was film I hadn't seen before. Also, I went to the mini-mart looking for a desk calendar. I didn't find one, but did get some post cards for Aunt Clarice & Uncle Walker. I also saw some self-adhesive hooks, which, upon investigation in my room, I can use to hang my calendars. Out in town, I first went to Seiyu. I was looking for the stationery department, and when I found it, it didn't look familiar. Then I realized that I had been thinking of Saikaya. Anyway, I found just the sort of desk calendar I wanted at Seiyu, I also bought two pens. Can't have too many pens. Afterward, there was still time to go down to the supermarket, so I did and bought Key Morning Blend, a bottle of Bitter & Lemon, and a can of vegetable juice(1). For supper (I didn't go out for lunch because I needed to deal with my household goods delivery) I went to the Bon Chi(2). Either I have become accustomed to high prices or theirs haven't gone up so much since I was last there. The kaki su and special okonomiyaki were both delicious(3). In fact, Bon chi's okonomiyaki may be better than Botejyu's and Botejyu's is quite good(4). After supper I still had room for dessert, so a went to Fujiya and had a very tasty strawberry shortcake (set w/ coffee–the coffee isn't great, but is good enough). And so, back to the barracks with a stop at a machine to buy Suntory Coffee.
(1) The B&L is a Japanese version of Schweppe's Bitter Lemon. The Japanese version is (or at least was) better than the Canada Dry version. The vegetable juice was a Japanese version of V-8.
(2) Midorigaoka 30. Follow the street across Highway 16 from the Main Gate for a couple of blocks, and continue as it veers off to the right and starts to go up a slope. The entrance to Bon Chi is very shortly after that, on the right.
(3) Kaki su is an appetizer consisting of raw oysters in a light vinegar/soy sauce. Okonomiyaki is an egg dish which is not, strictly speaking an omelet, since the other ingredients are not folded inside the cooked egg mixture, but mixed into the egg mixture at the start of or before cooking. The other ingredients always include some chopped vegetables and may also include, chicken, pork, and/or seafood.
(4) Strictly speaking, the "y" isn’t necessary in modern Romanization, but that is the spelling they use.
12 Feb 1983 (Sat): The first item on the agenda off base was lunch. Between sleeping late and shopping on base, it wasn't possible to get out early enough to shop in Seiyu before lunch. I went to the "old" tenpura-ya [I've no idea where this restaurant might have been], where I had a delicious matsu tenpura teishoku. Then to Seiyu for groceries. While there, I saw some things I could buy to take back to the office for lunch. I finally bought some milk and baked goods. What I had nearly bought as (cow's) milk on a previous shopping trip is actually soy milk. Since I had perishable items, I went directly back to the barracks to put them in the refrigerator. Besides, it was awkward to carry the bag. While on base, I returned to the Exchange for some things I had forgotten to buy this morning. On the way out (to town) I stopped at the A-33 to buy two blank tapes. I also checked audio and saw some components which might be potential purchases if the turntables can use the deck/radio as a power source. Once out, I checked several shops for the tape prices and for SoundBurgers. Generally, tapes are cheaper at A-33, except for one brand at Seiyu. While in Seiyu, I discovered that the stationery department I had been thinking of when I bought the desk calendar yesterday is in Seiyu after all. It appears that there are two stationery sections on the same floor in Seiyu. My first impression of the place was that it was a collection of shops on the order of Parco and that may have been correct [it was]. Yajima record store(1) has some classical albums I want, so I won’t have to go to Tokyo for all my records. I quickly explored Seibu (across the street from Chuo Station [on Chuo Dori before the curve]), and although it doesn’t have a food floor, the audio section does have SoundBurgers. The restaurant seems a bit pricey, but does serve straight coffee at reasonable prices. From there I went exploring on the streets that head in the direction of Yokosuka Hotel [hotel is in Yonegahamadori 2-Chome]. There is the usual assortment of shops and a few restaurants. Nothing out of the ordinary. I did see an interesting shrine on a hill(2), but decided to save it for another day when I can get there earlier. On my return [to the Chuo Station area], I stopped at Coffee Amigo for coffee and notes. The coffee is stronger than Alberi, but not as strong as the other place [Yashima?]. I think I've found what's left of the former coffee shop Sasaya. It's a tiny place selling beans and other coffee-making stuff(3). Now it's almost supper time, but not quite. I looked at the Sasaya mini-shop again and saw that I would be able to buy Melita coffee supplies there. I dawdled on my way to Maison de Madoca for supper(4). I had intended to eat in the Chinese restaurant section, but they were preparing for a party at 1830, so I ate upstairs, as usual. I had the \1600 dinner, that has changed from what the menu says & shows. It had rice, soup, char chai [pickled, spicy mustard plant root], and three small portions of entrees. The beef w/ green peppers had more green onions than green peppers–too many onions for me. However, the sauce was very good and the meat was tender and flavorful. The rice noodles w/ sauce doesn't look very appetizing, but is very tasty. The shrimp w/ ginko nuts & green peppers was delicious. From there, back to the barracks. I have plenty of things for dessert here.
(1) Wakamatsu-cho 1-5 on the Seibu side of Chuo O-Dori about a block from Chuo Station.
(2) Evidently, this building was/is not actually a shrine (at least not in recent times), but one of the buildings in what the older map labels Suwa Park. Even my older map does not show a shrine in that location. The newer map does not show the Suwa Park in that location, but does show two sets of steps leading up the hill. The newer map names the park between "the Honcho" and Shioiri Station Suwa Park. Tokyo City Atlas shows the park with the "shrine" as Yokosuka Central Park. "Another day" still hasn't come, because I did not return to investigate the "shrine."
(3) In Wakamatsucho 3-Chome, around the first or second corner from Coffee Amigo on one of the streets leading away from the town center off of Wakamatsu Dori, the street going from the station to NH 16. It wasn't a real building, but a very small metal & glass structure placed on a small open piece of land along the small street.
(4) A restaurant on the same small street as the Bon Chi, but several doors down, toward Suwa Park.
13 Feb 1983 (Sun): I left the base this morning and went directly to Chuo Station (hardly anything was open anyway). At the station, I realized that I didn't know how to operate the ticket machine to buy a \650 (to Higashi Ginza) ticket. I could have bought a \450 ticket and paid the rest later, but I wanted to figure out how to buy the ticket I wanted. As it happened, I made a mistake that I should have known better to make, so I didn't get the chance to figure it out. While on the train (kaiso tokkyu) a conductor came around for some advance fare adjustment, so I got the correct ticket at that time. I didn't have time to stop in Ginza. From Nagatacho Station, I noticed a slight short cut which takes you to the National Theatre through the back. At the box office, I learned that you didn't get one ticket for two (or three) through performances, but bought two tickets at reduced rates. Perhaps I didn't consider the matter carefully, but I got the impression from Tour Companion that you got one ticket. It didn't occur to me that the bunraku performance would be in the small theater and people were entering the doors for the large theater, so I started in with them. That was incorrect. I never did learn what was happening in the large theater. Once inside the small theater, I looked at the seating chart and couldn't find my seat. The first floor only went back to row 19 and I was in row 20. I thought perhaps I'm in the balcony (I had one of the cheap tickets for the first program). There is no balcony. The mystery was resolved by the revelation that row 20 consisted of folding chairs at the back. Anyway, the performances were most interesting and enjoyable. I'm glad I was finally able to see bunraku. It was well worth seeing, even if I couldn't understand any of the dialogue (except for a stray word here & there). I discovered that the brand of dried squid they sell at the National Theatre is too sweet for my taste. I should have bought one of the small bento. It would only have been \150 more. Well, I suppose I didn't need that much to eat. The sato anzu (candied apricots) would have been sufficient & tasty. At first, I had considered eating supper at Taj(1). However, I eventually decided that this was a good opportunity to eat in one of the restaurants in Ginza. I decided on Ghandara, the Pakistani restaurant(2). I had the Ghandara course, which was excellent. The nan was the best I’ve eaten so far. It also had small portions of tandoori chicken and three mutton courses (it's a good thing I like mutton). The rice makes it a very filling meal, but I still had room for the delicious ice cream. And so, back to Yokosuka and the barracks.
(1) On Sotobori Dori near Akasaka-Mitsuke Station (same side of the street) in Akasaka 3-Chome.
(2) In the building (Ginza 5-Chome) across Miyuki Dori from Matsuzakaya Dept. Store.
14 Feb 1983 (Mon): Because of confusion about the lunch schedule, I was late getting out for lunch. Genroku Sushi was full, so I went to "Mikasa Ginza restaurant A" (where I had the gomoku yakisoba previously). I had the jo tenpura soba, which made a tasty, filling lunch. I was also late getting away from the office in the evening. After some hesitation, I decided to try to make the Yokohama meeting. I knew there wouldn't be time to eat supper beforehand, but thought that with good connections I could get to the meeting on time. As it turned out, I did make good connections at Chuo Station and at the bus stop in Yokohama [the terminal on the east side of Yokohama Station]. I nearly missed the bus by dawdling in Porta(1) (had to try a new brand of canned coffee–MMC(2) "Blue & Mountains"–it's good). Anyway, I got to the meeting on time. I went directly back to Yokosuka via Byobugaura Station (courtesy of Sam). I decided it wouldn't hurt to see what was available in Yokosuka for supper late at night. The Chinese restaurant above Fire Katsu Tei was open, so I thought I would try it. The resutoran(3) nearby was also open, but I was more in the mood for Chinese food. The Chinese restaurant has a limited selection, but the prices are good. I had a tasty subuta(4). I returned to base via Sennichi-dori. On the way back I was some other possibilities for late suppers, even after 2200. I was surprised to see that the "old" tempura-ya was still open. And so, back to the barracks.
(1) Part of the very large underground shopping complex around Yokohama station. Porta is on the east side.
(2) Mitsumoto Coffee
(3) A Japanese word derived, as you might expect from "restaurant." It is used to indicate a restaurant serving Western-style dishes that have often been adapted to Japanese tastes. It does not specialize in any particular type of dish.
(4) Ironically, this is not really a Chinese dish (although I didn’t know it at the time). Subuta is derived from sweet & sour pork, but is a Japan-ized dish.
(1) The "fire" is two syllables, and is the Japanese rendering of "fillet". The "katsu" is a shortened form of the Japanese rendering of "cutlet" ("katsuretsu" in full).
(2) "On the economy" (i.e., local economy) is Navy jargon for transactions made off-base that do not involve the U.S. military or U.S. Government in any way. The hope that I'd be able to find shoes to fit me in Japanese stores was probably unrealistic. I should have been aware from my previous tour of duty that the range of Japanese apparel sizes was consistently smaller than American sizes. I believe the largest shoe size available in Japanese stores was at least a couple of sizes smaller than what I wore.
2 Feb 1983 (Wed): High time to make entries, no doubt(1). Because of the weather I didn't want to wander around Omote Sando looking for someplace to buy a bento. Therefore, I went to Ginza, where I knew I could get a bento without going outside. First, I had my morning coffee at Toa. Matsuzakaya was closed, so I looked in Ginza Core for a sushi shop. As I thought, there is one, Tsukiji Tamazushi, and I bought a bento there. There wasn't time to look around for a wallet, so to Omote Sando for the meeting. I found the building easily enough, but finding the meeting place within it turned out to be a problem . Finally, three of us "lost souls" came together and settled on a room. Two of the regulars eventually came in. The weather still wasn't good after the meeting, so I took the subway. While riding, I changed my mind and came to Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi instead of stopping in Ginza. Here, I can buy a wallet, have dessert (which I'm doing now, a coffee jelly in the first floor tea room–not bad, but I've had better), and buy a couple of those art books I saw on my previous visit. At first, I went to the wrong floor to find wallets. Men's clothing is on the second floor, but accessories are on the first floor. Once I found the wallets, I found what I wanted right away. In the gallery where I went to buy the art books there was a different exhibit, so I stopped in for a look. There were some excellent paintings. There was also an interesting pottery exhibit on the second floor. In fact, I saw many interesting things while in the store (green onyx tables and accessories, rose jade, azurite, and more). In order to refresh myself and shape my plans for the evening, I stopped at the juice bar and had some cut pineapple. The pineapple was delicious, but I hadn't yet decided what to do this evening. Anyway, I gravitated to the subway station. While there, I decided to see of the Tokyo Bunka Kaikan ticket office was open. I figured that if I got tickets for the piano recital tonight, I would find some way to kill time in Ueno. The ticket office is open, and I bought tickets for a concert tomorrow as well. Bringing my diary up to date (in the TBK) has killed some time. I think I can eat supper before the concert if I don't try to eat a huge supper. I'll look around in Keisei depato (if it is open!)(2). In actuality, I checked in TC before going over there to make sure Keisei was open. Since there was time, I looked around the basement first. They have a coffee bar with straight coffee. Then up the escalator to the restaurant floor. I was in the mood for Chinese food, and so investigated the offerings of the Chinese restaurant. I saw something in the case which struck my fancy, and it was a tasty dish. Rather than struggle with two bags during the concert, I put my bags in a coin locker at Ueno Station. I'm now awaiting the beginning of the concert. The concert was very good. From there I went directly to HB to write a letter and have a few goodies.
(1) A remark prompted by my tendency, which I was never able to correct, to wait until well after events to make diary entries.
(2) The depato was not in the station building, if my memory is correct. The only map that shows it, an older map, places it between the above-ground rail lines and the Shuto Expressway #1, across from the Hirokoji Entrance of the station building. However, my newer Tokyo City Atlas shows a Marui store in that location. Both things are possible. I just don’t remember where the Keisei depato was located.
[B]3 Feb 1983 (Thu): I'm getting my morning coffee whether I had intended to or not. Having come directly to Shibuya and more-or-less found the Taiwanese restaurant I wanted, I sem to have wandered into a nearby coffee shop. The door was practically next to the sign that indicates (or seems to) the restaurant. The restaurant is downstairs. It was disconcerting to discover that the restaurant had no menus, or used none for lunch, as well as having no display case(1). Of course, they didn't speak English. However, I quickly deduced that there were two lunch sets being offered and chose the chicken with bamboo shoot set. The price, as I read the bill, seemed a bit high, but I knew that is frequently the case in Chinese restaurants here. The food was excellent, though, and they were offering seconds on soup as well as rice, so I availed myself of the opportunity. When I went to pay the bill, I discovered that what I had read as \1500 was actually one meal at \500. Not bad at all! From there I set out for the Tobacco & Salt Museum. On the way, I was sidetracked by the Fashion Community 109, which turned out to be a building with shops, an outfit along the lines of Parco, Belle Vie Akasaka, & Ginza Core(2). The exhibition at the T&SM could have used some signs in English, but it was interesting. On the way back to Shibuya Station, [ I looked in the Tokyu depato in the station building](3). It was a fortuitous decision, because I not only discovered that the Sound Burgers run on batteries as well as Japanese House current, but also found a Ten Ichi branch shop with reasonable prices [the best-known location, in Ginza, is expensive]. I'm now in the (serious) coffee shop in B1. They have a wide selection of Key whole bean coffee in B2. I'm now resting my bones in the Riccar Museum of Art. I came here by way of Shinbashi Station. On the way, I noticed a most promising coffee shop. The exhibit was excellent. My original idea for supper was Darie, but when I went by there, it didn't look like they were serving yet. The Pakistani restaurant [Ghandara] also didn't open until 1700 (it could be that Darie doesn't begin serving supper until 1730), and I wasn't certain I wanted food that spicy. I walked down to Movenpick (Ginza). Having seen some things that caught my fancy (I wanted a reasonably ambitious supper), I decided that I could fiddle around the few minutes until the restaurant opened. I did that and had a delicious supper. The soup was a trifle over-priced (good, though), but the broccoli may have been the best I've ever eaten. From supper to Ueno for the concert. The Hindemith was interesting, but the brass tended to swamp the rest of the orchestra, especially the strings. The Mozart Concertone set me to wondering of the hall is too large for small ensembles, although the soloists played beautifully. The Beethoven Symphony #3 was completely successful. A delight to hear. Then back to HB to rest a bit and munch.
(1) The lack of such useful information about the restaurant was a lapse on Tour Companion's part.
(2) Which is to say, it is a vertical mall. It is owned and operated by the Tokyu department store chain. The name of the company, Tokyu, can be read as "ten-nine", or 109.
(3) The comment in brackets is a guess at what should be there. In my haste while making notes, I didn't directly say what happened on the way to the station, although subsequent context certainly indicates looking around in the station department store.
4 Feb 1983 (Fri): My original intention for today had been to see the matinee at the Kabukiza. However, I decided this morning that so much siting today (including the movie this evening, for which I already have a ticket) would be a strain on the gluteus maximus (glutei maximi?). I went back to "Ro Poro" for my morning coffee. I had lunch at the mizutaki-ya in the basement of the Sunroser Bldg. The mizutaki teishoku is large enough that I wonder how I would eat all of the "A Course," which is 3 1/2 times the cost of the teishoku. Perhaps the "A Course" is for two people. However, I don't see anything in the description of the "A Course" that indicates that it's for "ni-nin" ["two persons"]. From there to the Ota Memorial Museum of Art for another excellent ukiyo-e(1) exhibition. Following that, I had dessert, "anzu kuriimu" ["apricot cream"] at Takemura, in the basement. Then I got a good lesson in the advisability of checking with TC before going anyplace. The exhibit I went to the Yamatane Museum to see doesn't begin until tomorrow. After some cogitation, I decided that this would be as good as any opportunity to investigate Akihabara. I'm glad I did. It's something of a rabbit warren. I checked several shops, and I don't think it will be possible to get anything for barracks use between a Sound Burger and a sizeable combo. I found Budokan easily enough. Upon exiting Kudanshita Station it would be difficult to miss. Rather than look for someplace to have a snack beforehand, I decided to have refreshments in Budokan (they always have refreshments at such places). The movie was most interesting(2). I could follow it well enough in spite of the Japanese subtitles. I sure would like to know that the ghosts of Danton, et al., said to Napoleon in the empty chamber of deputies (?), though. At the movie's end, I didn't dawdle applauding for the conductor/composer and orchestra, although it is an excellent "soundtrack," and it was played very well. I thought it was more important to avoid the rush and get to the subway station. A much-delayed supper will be eaten at Ginza Cozy Corner (Roppongi). There was some sort of confusion between me and the waiter, but I got what I ordered, the paella dinner, which was excellent. I was in such an expansive mood, I bought a couple of goodies on my way out. And so, back to HB.
(1) "Ukiyo-e" means "pictures of the floating world," and refers to both paintings and woodblock prints that deal with, at least tangentially, the pleasure quarters and kabuki.
(2) Abel Gance's Napoleon, with three screens (for the end) and music composed especially for the restored version played by one of the Tokyo orchestras, conducted by the composer, Carmine Coppola.
5 Feb 1983 (Sat): I hope I haven't fiddled around too long. Oh well, the worst that could happen is that I would miss the meeting this evening. That's hardly critical, since there may be one in Yokosuka Sunday and there is one in Yokohama Monday. I came to Hosyo for lunch (take teishoku–excellent). As I recalled, there was room to stash my sea bag outside but near, although not in the location of which I had been thinking. As soon as I finish my coffee (with the meal, and in a Chinese restaurant), I'll be on my way (groan) to Yokosuka. No problem getting to Yokosuka. I left my Service Record and orders back in Tokyo (the records I grabbed before I left didn't contain my Service Record), but I had a couple of copies of my 3067 [A sheet with personal information/ data] in my Pay Record. The first room we (the Barracks Petty Officer and I) went to was a trash heap(1). The next room was much better, so I took that one. Then, over to the Exchange to get my jumpers, which I stashed in the room. Once out of the gate, I decided that I didn't have time to get to the meeting if I stopped at HB to pick up and jar of instant coffee I had intended to leave there. That had been one of my main reasons for going, so I decided to take a look around Yokosuka for a little bit. I looked through the upper floors at Saikaya [a depato]. No Sound Burger, but a good restaurant. Next, I looked in Seiyu(2). They have a great little supermarket in the basement. I bought a small jar of one of the brands of instant coffee that looks promising. I suppose I could have continued, but I thought I should catch a train before the worst part of rush hour arrived. I might as well get back to Tokyo, which has a greater variety of restaurants, as long as I'm returning to Tokyo tonight anyway. I changed clothes at HB and set out to have supper. I went past Borsalino, but the menu didn't particularly tempt me. It seemed like an Italian version of a French restaurant, rather than an Italian restaurant. So, it was Stockholm after all. I had the smorgasbord once again. It does indeed make a fine meal. The sell the desserts. I must remember that. Then, back to HB to pack.
(1) It's not stated in the diary, but I've gone to the Enlisted Quarters (barracks) to be assigned a room. The sorry state of the first room, was all too common. Most sailors seemed to be quite content to live like pigs.
(2) Basically, a vertical mall, although they had a supermarket in the basement, as an analogue of a depato food floor.
6 Feb 1983 (Sun): Good grief! Those bags are heavy. I went to Ginza Station and found a coin locker without trouble. Then to the Kabukiza. The performance was at an earlier time than usual (1/2 hour), but I got a good seat. Two of the items were "neo-kabuki" dramas and the English Earphone Guide was a great help. The performances were most interesting and very enjoyable. Because I had eaten some things (leftovers) at HB before I checked out, I didn't order a meal at the kabukiza, but settled for a snack ("soft squid"), coffee, and a grapefruit drink during the performance. Afterward, I looked in Yamano Music [In Ginza 4-5-? between Wako and Mikimoto Pearl.] for the Shostakovitch Preludes & Fugues, to no avail(1). I will ask at the counter at a time when I'm prepared to buy. Now, I'm at Toa having a Mandehling and killing time until it's late enough to have supper. Since I didn't have a proper lunch, I've committed myself to having supper here in Tokyo rather than lugging those bags back to Yokosuka on an empty stomach. I feel obliged to have "international cuisine," which may not be easy, since most of those restaurants are closed on Sunday. The restaurant featuring Szechuan food [which one?] was open. Ironically, what I had was probably not a Szechuan regional dish, unless they cook fresh-water fish that way. At any rate, it was excellent, with a vegetable I don't recall eating before. I didn't have something rich and spicy so that I would have room for a substantial dessert afterward. Dessert was a fruit crepe at Cafe Latin. A "blast from the past."(2) Having no further justifiable reason for dawdling in Tokyo, I set out for Yokosuka. After putting away my bags in the room, I went out to get a few cans of coffee and juice. What used to be my "favorite liquor store" probably won't be any more, since it no longer carries the juice and dairy items I used to buy there(3). However, I now have Saikaya and Seiyu. I found no less than two machines that have Suntory coffee. I also bought what appears to be a canned version of the lemon drink [ramune] in the special glass bottles that you see at festivals. And so, back to the barracks.
(1) As of Feb 2007, I still don't have a recording of them. All recorded complete sets have their drawbacks.
(2) I had discovered Cafe Latin in the 1975-77 period. The entrance was off the pedestrian tunnel area of Ginza Station, between the Hibiya and Marunouchi Lines, on the same side as Wako, Ginza 4-3 or -4.
(3) This was a little liquor store I had found very useful in the 1975-77 period, even after I quit drinking, because it was a convenient place to buy the aforementioned items and ground coffee. It was on Chuo Dori close to Highway 16 in Odakicho 1-Chome, on the Honcho side of the street.
7 Feb 1983 (Mon): Lunch today was at the restaurant in Saikaya. It was Chuka don and was only fair. I recall that at least once before I have had Chuka don and wasn't impressed(1). I did notice a sushi shop with a conveyor belt as I was returning to work [Genroku sushi]. That will be useful information for the future. It was crowded when I went past, so the sushi can’t be too bad. I was late getting away from the office and don't know if I'’ll have time for supper in Yokohama before the meeting. Well, I’m having supper beforehand, anyway. I noticed an attractive yakisoba shop (more or less yakisoba) in Porta(2) and decided to try it. My meal was excellent. I'’ll remember the place. I think the name is Morinoki. That's what is on the floor in romaji. Getting to the meeting was no problem, even if I was a little late. Afterward, Sam took three of us to Byobugaura Station. I took a quick look at a few fruit stores to make sure that none of them was open. I didn't actually expect one of them to be open, but it didn't hurt to take a few minutes to make certain. And so, back to the barracks.
(1) The name is short for Chuka donburi, "Chinese bowl of rice". The dish is heavily Japan-ized Chinese cuisine, consisting of bits of vegetable & fish cake in a thick sauce over rice in a ceramic bowl. Back when I didn't know any better, I thought is was Japanese food. However, the sauce usually tastes too much like American chow mein sauce.
(2) An underground shopping area on the east side of Yokohama Station. The total underground shopping area connected to/with Yokohama Station is quite large.
8 Feb 1983 (Tue): I had lunch in Genroku Sushi. Quick, cheap and quite tasty. I will be back. Because of working late and shopping in the mini-mart, I was a bit late getting out once again. The little stationery shop I has seen previously was still open, so I bought two highlighters (none in mini-mart) and another notebook for expenses. Seiyu was open, so I went in to look around the upper floors. In the stationery section, I found a notebook for daily activities and a gray pen for work. I also looked in audio and saw some good prices on combos, but no Sound Burger. The store was closing (closing time seems to be 1900), so I wasn’t able to buy anything in the supermarket. My old favorite tonkatsu-ya, Itosha, was closed(1). After some looking around I decided on Fire Katsu Tei, where I had a very good rosu katsu teishoku ["rosu katsu" is "roast cutlet", not quite as lean as "fire katsu", "fillet cutlet"]. On Chuo Dori I noticed a coffee shop that has straight coffee and couldn't resist it. The coffee isn't very strong, but is of good quality (they use Key coffee). It (Alberi) is also a patisserie. I'll examine their wares as I leave. I saw a "rare cheese" dessert with four toppings. Well, four choices. I chose a kiwi. As it turned out, Fujiya was still open. I had wanted a can of fruit juice anyway, so I bought peach nectar. Then, back to the barracks, buying a couple cans of Suntory coffee along the way.
(1) Itosha was on the same street as the Centraza (now Central) Hotel, more-or-less perpendicular to Chuo Dori, near Chuo Station.
9 Feb 1983 (Wed): For lunch I went to Itosha. The noren was out, but I don't think they were ready for customers(1). If they really don't open until 1130, it would be impractical to have lunch there if I continue to go to lunch at 1100. I had a very tasty oyster fry. Because I stopped for a haircut after work, I didn't get out until after 1800 once again. This being Wednesday, most of the central shopping district is closed. Seiyu, however, is open, so I did a bit of grocery shopping. It took a conscious effort of will to keep from buying an armful of groceries. I had originally wanted milk, but decided to wait for the weekend to have milk & pastry, whether or not I go to Tokyo. Korean food had been on my mind, but instead I chose a secondary option, Ryu En. The original idea was to have a rice-less meal, lest I become over-riced(2). However, my curiosity about Ryu En eventually prevailed. I'm glad I went. The food is Peking-style, as I had recalled. I had chicken cashew, which was delicious. And rich! Now I know that I don't need to go to Yokohama for Peking-style food [a favorite of mine]. After supper, I decided that I had room for a cup of coffee, So I went to Yashima, which is one of the coffee shops I had noted on 27 Jan. It is indeed a serious coffee shop and the coffee is excellent. Then, back to the barracks.
(1) On occasion, I got the impression that a restaurant let me in and served me because just didn't realize that they weren't open yet. Supposedly, the rule is (obtained from English-language media) that if the noren is out, a restaurant is open, but I don't think that's always true. The noren is a curtain-like cloth sign on a rod outside and above the entrance of most Japanese-style restaurants.
(2) A needless worry, really. I can eat rice far more often than the average Westerner.
10 Feb 1983 (Thu): Lunch was at the first restaurant (not coffee shop) on the right in the Mikasa Ginza(1). The waitress wanted me to order from the display case. I had decided on yakisoba, so I pointed to it. As I sat down, I noticed a gomoku yakisoba on the menu and quickly changed my order. It wasn't quite what I expected, having hard noodles and the ingredients in a thick sauce. I had wanted fried soft noodles, but this was well-made (the first "chow mein" type noodles I've had that were worth eating) and I enjoyed it(2). If the other items on the menu are as well-made, it will be a good place for lunch. I could read most of the items on the menu. On the way back I bought a bean bun from a little shop [stand, really] selling freshly made ones. It was excellent–better than the ones I had in Tokyo(3). They seem to be called kobanyaki (that is what it says on the window in Romaji above kanji [they are indeed, kobanyaki]. Also on the way back, I bought some dried persimmons from a fruit stand. Supper was at the Korean barbeque restaurant I had noticed above snack Blue Sky (the kanji for the restaurant is indecipherable)(4). I had an excellent meal of tongue, namuru, and kimchee. I saw other interesting items on the menu. For dessert I went to Fujiya, but the restaurant was closed. I did get a cup of pudding and a coffee jelly, though. Before returning to base, I took a look at some of the nearby area I hadn't explored. I saw yet another hotel, Hotel Palace [on the unnamed street between Sennichi Dori and NH 16]. This may be a serious hotel, unlike the gaudy thing across from the main gate, which is almost certainly a love hotel [it was]. There was a machine selling Sapporo "The Coffee." It’s tasty hot (Seiyu sells it unheated), but I'm not sure it would taste as good chilled. I considered going down the street heading away from Chuo Station toward NH 16, but could see that some of the shops were closed, so I decided it would keep for later. And so, back to the barracks.
(1) An arcade-like area of shops on the first floor of the Mikasa Building, on the same side of Chuo Dori as Yokosuka Chuo Station.
(2) I had trouble remembering that I usually found gomoku yakisoba or gomoku don to be a mediocre dish at best, largely because of the sauce and the hard noodles in the "yakisoba." I don't recall ever learning the name of this particular restaurant.
(3) This shop was on the same side of Chuo Dori as the Mikasa Ginza, on the end toward National Highway 16.
(4) Oddly enough, I don't think I got the names of any of the Korean restaurants at which I ate in Yokosuka. Of course, that made references to them a problem after forgetting which one was the "old ...", "new ...", etc.
11 Feb 1883 (Fri): I would have left base early today, but I watched most of a video disk in the Beatles in the 1st floor TV room. Almost all of it was film I hadn't seen before. Also, I went to the mini-mart looking for a desk calendar. I didn't find one, but did get some post cards for Aunt Clarice & Uncle Walker. I also saw some self-adhesive hooks, which, upon investigation in my room, I can use to hang my calendars. Out in town, I first went to Seiyu. I was looking for the stationery department, and when I found it, it didn't look familiar. Then I realized that I had been thinking of Saikaya. Anyway, I found just the sort of desk calendar I wanted at Seiyu, I also bought two pens. Can't have too many pens. Afterward, there was still time to go down to the supermarket, so I did and bought Key Morning Blend, a bottle of Bitter & Lemon, and a can of vegetable juice(1). For supper (I didn't go out for lunch because I needed to deal with my household goods delivery) I went to the Bon Chi(2). Either I have become accustomed to high prices or theirs haven't gone up so much since I was last there. The kaki su and special okonomiyaki were both delicious(3). In fact, Bon chi's okonomiyaki may be better than Botejyu's and Botejyu's is quite good(4). After supper I still had room for dessert, so a went to Fujiya and had a very tasty strawberry shortcake (set w/ coffee–the coffee isn't great, but is good enough). And so, back to the barracks with a stop at a machine to buy Suntory Coffee.
(1) The B&L is a Japanese version of Schweppe's Bitter Lemon. The Japanese version is (or at least was) better than the Canada Dry version. The vegetable juice was a Japanese version of V-8.
(2) Midorigaoka 30. Follow the street across Highway 16 from the Main Gate for a couple of blocks, and continue as it veers off to the right and starts to go up a slope. The entrance to Bon Chi is very shortly after that, on the right.
(3) Kaki su is an appetizer consisting of raw oysters in a light vinegar/soy sauce. Okonomiyaki is an egg dish which is not, strictly speaking an omelet, since the other ingredients are not folded inside the cooked egg mixture, but mixed into the egg mixture at the start of or before cooking. The other ingredients always include some chopped vegetables and may also include, chicken, pork, and/or seafood.
(4) Strictly speaking, the "y" isn’t necessary in modern Romanization, but that is the spelling they use.
12 Feb 1983 (Sat): The first item on the agenda off base was lunch. Between sleeping late and shopping on base, it wasn't possible to get out early enough to shop in Seiyu before lunch. I went to the "old" tenpura-ya [I've no idea where this restaurant might have been], where I had a delicious matsu tenpura teishoku. Then to Seiyu for groceries. While there, I saw some things I could buy to take back to the office for lunch. I finally bought some milk and baked goods. What I had nearly bought as (cow's) milk on a previous shopping trip is actually soy milk. Since I had perishable items, I went directly back to the barracks to put them in the refrigerator. Besides, it was awkward to carry the bag. While on base, I returned to the Exchange for some things I had forgotten to buy this morning. On the way out (to town) I stopped at the A-33 to buy two blank tapes. I also checked audio and saw some components which might be potential purchases if the turntables can use the deck/radio as a power source. Once out, I checked several shops for the tape prices and for SoundBurgers. Generally, tapes are cheaper at A-33, except for one brand at Seiyu. While in Seiyu, I discovered that the stationery department I had been thinking of when I bought the desk calendar yesterday is in Seiyu after all. It appears that there are two stationery sections on the same floor in Seiyu. My first impression of the place was that it was a collection of shops on the order of Parco and that may have been correct [it was]. Yajima record store(1) has some classical albums I want, so I won’t have to go to Tokyo for all my records. I quickly explored Seibu (across the street from Chuo Station [on Chuo Dori before the curve]), and although it doesn’t have a food floor, the audio section does have SoundBurgers. The restaurant seems a bit pricey, but does serve straight coffee at reasonable prices. From there I went exploring on the streets that head in the direction of Yokosuka Hotel [hotel is in Yonegahamadori 2-Chome]. There is the usual assortment of shops and a few restaurants. Nothing out of the ordinary. I did see an interesting shrine on a hill(2), but decided to save it for another day when I can get there earlier. On my return [to the Chuo Station area], I stopped at Coffee Amigo for coffee and notes. The coffee is stronger than Alberi, but not as strong as the other place [Yashima?]. I think I've found what's left of the former coffee shop Sasaya. It's a tiny place selling beans and other coffee-making stuff(3). Now it's almost supper time, but not quite. I looked at the Sasaya mini-shop again and saw that I would be able to buy Melita coffee supplies there. I dawdled on my way to Maison de Madoca for supper(4). I had intended to eat in the Chinese restaurant section, but they were preparing for a party at 1830, so I ate upstairs, as usual. I had the \1600 dinner, that has changed from what the menu says & shows. It had rice, soup, char chai [pickled, spicy mustard plant root], and three small portions of entrees. The beef w/ green peppers had more green onions than green peppers–too many onions for me. However, the sauce was very good and the meat was tender and flavorful. The rice noodles w/ sauce doesn't look very appetizing, but is very tasty. The shrimp w/ ginko nuts & green peppers was delicious. From there, back to the barracks. I have plenty of things for dessert here.
(1) Wakamatsu-cho 1-5 on the Seibu side of Chuo O-Dori about a block from Chuo Station.
(2) Evidently, this building was/is not actually a shrine (at least not in recent times), but one of the buildings in what the older map labels Suwa Park. Even my older map does not show a shrine in that location. The newer map does not show the Suwa Park in that location, but does show two sets of steps leading up the hill. The newer map names the park between "the Honcho" and Shioiri Station Suwa Park. Tokyo City Atlas shows the park with the "shrine" as Yokosuka Central Park. "Another day" still hasn't come, because I did not return to investigate the "shrine."
(3) In Wakamatsucho 3-Chome, around the first or second corner from Coffee Amigo on one of the streets leading away from the town center off of Wakamatsu Dori, the street going from the station to NH 16. It wasn't a real building, but a very small metal & glass structure placed on a small open piece of land along the small street.
(4) A restaurant on the same small street as the Bon Chi, but several doors down, toward Suwa Park.
13 Feb 1983 (Sun): I left the base this morning and went directly to Chuo Station (hardly anything was open anyway). At the station, I realized that I didn't know how to operate the ticket machine to buy a \650 (to Higashi Ginza) ticket. I could have bought a \450 ticket and paid the rest later, but I wanted to figure out how to buy the ticket I wanted. As it happened, I made a mistake that I should have known better to make, so I didn't get the chance to figure it out. While on the train (kaiso tokkyu) a conductor came around for some advance fare adjustment, so I got the correct ticket at that time. I didn't have time to stop in Ginza. From Nagatacho Station, I noticed a slight short cut which takes you to the National Theatre through the back. At the box office, I learned that you didn't get one ticket for two (or three) through performances, but bought two tickets at reduced rates. Perhaps I didn't consider the matter carefully, but I got the impression from Tour Companion that you got one ticket. It didn't occur to me that the bunraku performance would be in the small theater and people were entering the doors for the large theater, so I started in with them. That was incorrect. I never did learn what was happening in the large theater. Once inside the small theater, I looked at the seating chart and couldn't find my seat. The first floor only went back to row 19 and I was in row 20. I thought perhaps I'm in the balcony (I had one of the cheap tickets for the first program). There is no balcony. The mystery was resolved by the revelation that row 20 consisted of folding chairs at the back. Anyway, the performances were most interesting and enjoyable. I'm glad I was finally able to see bunraku. It was well worth seeing, even if I couldn't understand any of the dialogue (except for a stray word here & there). I discovered that the brand of dried squid they sell at the National Theatre is too sweet for my taste. I should have bought one of the small bento. It would only have been \150 more. Well, I suppose I didn't need that much to eat. The sato anzu (candied apricots) would have been sufficient & tasty. At first, I had considered eating supper at Taj(1). However, I eventually decided that this was a good opportunity to eat in one of the restaurants in Ginza. I decided on Ghandara, the Pakistani restaurant(2). I had the Ghandara course, which was excellent. The nan was the best I’ve eaten so far. It also had small portions of tandoori chicken and three mutton courses (it's a good thing I like mutton). The rice makes it a very filling meal, but I still had room for the delicious ice cream. And so, back to Yokosuka and the barracks.
(1) On Sotobori Dori near Akasaka-Mitsuke Station (same side of the street) in Akasaka 3-Chome.
(2) In the building (Ginza 5-Chome) across Miyuki Dori from Matsuzakaya Dept. Store.
14 Feb 1983 (Mon): Because of confusion about the lunch schedule, I was late getting out for lunch. Genroku Sushi was full, so I went to "Mikasa Ginza restaurant A" (where I had the gomoku yakisoba previously). I had the jo tenpura soba, which made a tasty, filling lunch. I was also late getting away from the office in the evening. After some hesitation, I decided to try to make the Yokohama meeting. I knew there wouldn't be time to eat supper beforehand, but thought that with good connections I could get to the meeting on time. As it turned out, I did make good connections at Chuo Station and at the bus stop in Yokohama [the terminal on the east side of Yokohama Station]. I nearly missed the bus by dawdling in Porta(1) (had to try a new brand of canned coffee–MMC(2) "Blue & Mountains"–it's good). Anyway, I got to the meeting on time. I went directly back to Yokosuka via Byobugaura Station (courtesy of Sam). I decided it wouldn't hurt to see what was available in Yokosuka for supper late at night. The Chinese restaurant above Fire Katsu Tei was open, so I thought I would try it. The resutoran(3) nearby was also open, but I was more in the mood for Chinese food. The Chinese restaurant has a limited selection, but the prices are good. I had a tasty subuta(4). I returned to base via Sennichi-dori. On the way back I was some other possibilities for late suppers, even after 2200. I was surprised to see that the "old" tempura-ya was still open. And so, back to the barracks.
(1) Part of the very large underground shopping complex around Yokohama station. Porta is on the east side.
(2) Mitsumoto Coffee
(3) A Japanese word derived, as you might expect from "restaurant." It is used to indicate a restaurant serving Western-style dishes that have often been adapted to Japanese tastes. It does not specialize in any particular type of dish.
(4) Ironically, this is not really a Chinese dish (although I didn’t know it at the time). Subuta is derived from sweet & sour pork, but is a Japan-ized dish.