The small capital of the Yamaguchi prefecture (pop. 130,000) acted as alternative capital to Kyoto during the late Muromachi period (1467-1573), when the war raged around Kyoto and noblemen sought refuge in Western Honshu's remoteness.
The Kozan-koen Park and its Ruriko-ji Pagoda (built in 1404) epitomize the Kyoto-style from the Muromachi period.
The Spanish missionary Francisco de Xavier came to Japan in 1549 and was allowed by the tolerant lord Ouchi to stay in Yamaguchi. He left 500 converts in the city, and a modern Memorial Church was built in 1952 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of his visit to the city.
Yamaguchi played an important role during the bakumatsu period. The daimyo Mori Takachika, from Hagi, a key figure of the overthrow of the Tokugawa regime, often met near the Ruriko-ji with other revolutionary samurai.
Another sightseeing spot is the Joei-i Temple, 3km north-east from the JR station. It is famous for its rock and moss Zen garden designed by the priest and master-painter Sesshu in the 15th century.
Yamaguchi has a few more temples, shrines and museums to offer, and it is a good idea to rent a bicycle to cover the sights, as they are spread quite far away from each others.
Also note that one of Japan's last steam locomotives, the SL Yamaguchi-go, runs daily from March to November between Ogori (10km south-east of Yamaguchi) and the small castle town of Tsuwano.
How to get there
Most trains from/to Yamaguchi, including the shinkansen, pass through Shin-Yamaguchi station, 12min from Yamaguchi station. There are direct connections from there to Shimonoseki (25min, ￥1,110), Tsuwano (1h, ￥1,110), Shin-Iwakuni (30min, ￥1,620) and Hiroshima (35min, ￥2,210).
Yamaguchi-Ube airport is about 40 minutes by bus (￥870) from Shin-Yamaguchi station. JAL and ANA have flights to Tokyo (Haneda) only.
